‘Kota Hantu’ Batavia

REPUBLIKA - Sunday, December 9, 2007 Page: 11a Author: Alwi Shahab Size: 5092 bytes 

Couperus, a newcomer from the Netherlands, so get off of the ship at the port of Sunda Kalapa Batavia in 1815 testifies that previously received the title 'queen of the east' has changed as if a ghost town. 

Then he explored Princenstraat which has now become Jalan Clove, north of the Post Office, Jakarta City. He found several buildings in the old town has been destroyed to the ground including the Governor General's Palace, which is quite a magnificent building at the time. 

The destruction was carried out by the governor-general Herman Willem Daendels in 1808 when it moved downtown to Weltevreden (Gambir and Bull Field), located about 15 km south of the old city. The move was made as the center of the seaside town has become a hotbed of disease. There is mention of 'grave' Dutchmen. 

In fact, prior to his way extending Princenstraat an elite area of ​​the Netherlands. Here are luxury buildings that are part of the most beautiful city of Batavia. "They build houses on the edge of the ditch and canal Tigergrach (canal tiger), a neatly fenced plant walnut trees on both sides, more than anything else I've ever seen in Holland," wrote Couperos. 

At the center of the population of the city government of VOC Batavia busy every day to the office, market or simply cruise around town, while showing off wealth. Great ladies of the Company, as well as Dutch nyai, fancy dress department with tiered skirt like a chicken cage. They seek out the wind beside the canal and the canal Batavia with supercilious. 

The slaves and their accompanying bedinde running. Umbrella face of hot tropical sun. The slave women continue fanning the breeze for the housekeeper who keeps chewing betel nut, memerahi lips. 

Meanwhile, under the shade of a walnut tree lined neatly along the banks of the canal and the canal, passing Batavia residents amid a flurry thousand. "At dusk ahead, bath houses along the banks of the canal and the canal wall, filled with topless women bathing in the water, a man-eater crocodile worry zonder fad that came peeping," Thomas wrote in a book store B Ataladjar Red. At that time, when a moonlit night, especially Saturday night, young men and women who were in love singing while strumming the guitar exploring the canals by boat. 

For residents of Greater Jakarta - Jakarta, Bogor, Depok, Tangerang, Bekasi will be very difficult today to imagine the city of Batavia were relaxed in the late 18th century and 19th century. Most of the buildings from that era have been razed to the ground. Beautiful gardens surround the villas that give color to the city of Batavia Europe has lost. Some remnants from the past was now appear dirty. Traffic jams, while the mouth of the Ciliwung once proud and accessible to ships, looked dirty, blackish and odorless.

In those days there were no cars, and of course there is no congestion, especially pollution. Hawkers, fast track and lifelike without being chased time like the present. That there are only a few horse-drawn sado broke the silence that is not paved highway and shaded by leafy trees that stand firm without fear of falling as often happens these days. 

According to Bernard Dorleans in the book People Indonesia & The French of Century XVI s / d XX century, in 1815 Batavia has a population of only 47 thousand inhabitants and by the end of the 19th century as many as 116 thousand people. In other words, the capital of the Dutch East Indies when compared with the rural atmosphere of the industrial city and port of Surabaya with a population of 147 thousand inhabitants and rhythmic life faster. 

Governor General Daendels, after devastated the old city of Batavia, Weltevreden build dozens of kilometers south of the old city. In addition to building and government offices as a center, he also built a field Gambir who initially named the Champs de Mars. Then, when the Netherlands became Konings Plein power back. In Weltevreden he also built what is now the Waterlooplein Banteng. 

Konings Plein by Betawi people are called Gambir and Field Ikada Field during the Japanese (now Square Monas), perhaps the most extensive in the world field. Broader than the Santo Pietro in Vatican where the Pope face to face with Catholic pilgrims. Also broader than Tian An Men in Beijing and Red Square in Moscow. 

Near the monument there Betel Garden. Name, it can be expected, the area was once a betel garden. The vines were not so long ago many people to tune chewed nyirih (betel nut). Completeness include lime (betel), areca and gambier. 

Until the 1960s in homes where betel is still available for the mothers who came to visit with spittoons to throw red colored saliva after chewing. Until the 19th century, not just women, men too much to nyirih.

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